Kruger untamed: Stories, legacy and the people who keep us wild

By Carel Nolte

There’s nothing quite like a long weekend driven by meaning rather than mere escape. That’s exactly what I experienced recently at Kruger Untamed – a seasonal camp that, like a rare shooting star, shows up for a few months and then vanishes. That kind of fleeting brilliance is something I love. And it reminded me of the joy I experience at Burning Man. If something is temporary, you really need to focus all your senses to enjoy it. 

This carefully curated retreat was organised by Iconic Africa, run by my mate John Holley – a fellow entrepreneur who’s built a business that elegantly and authentically showcases some of Africa’s most remarkable wildlife properties.

Over the years, I’ve been lucky enough to enjoy some phenomenal specials through Iconic Africa. Whatever your passport, for a unique and beautifully executed experience, do yourself a favour and check them out. 

Driving from Skukuza Airport into Kruger, a leopard greeted us. And then another. The days that followed brought sightings of mating lions, rhino, buffalo and elephant – but what stayed with me wasn’t just the Big Five. It was the sunrises and sunsets, the scent of the veld, the hum of late-afternoon conversation (and plenty of laughter), drinks with both old and new friends, and my favourite part of the bush – trees, for me the greatest storytellers of all.

Evenings brought another treat – Derek Kilpin of Great Domaines pouring tastings that included my beloved Pol Roger, a family-run champagne house that never fails to make me feel grateful for my life and all its privileges.

But this trip was about more than indulgence. It was about The Tracker Academy, where we met Alex van den Heever and Renias Mhlongo – two people working to protect South Africa’s beating heart. The Academy teaches, often to disadvantaged rural youth, the art of wildlife tracking – a formally accredited programme that blends traditional skills with modern conservation management training.

As Alex explains: “Tracker Academy’s work aims to prove that wildlife tracking is a legitimate and vital conservation management skill.”

Tracking isn’t a novelty for tourists. It’s a language – of soil, spoor and instinct – that reconnects us to both the earth and each other. Watching Alex and Renias at work is astounding. With a few clues, they can peice together a whole narrative.

One tracker, Innocent, shared his story: a childhood where the biggest treat was a teaspoon of sugar water shared among 17 half-siblings; surviving through poaching; and later becoming a leading community builder, educator and tracker. His account brought more than admiration – it brought tears.

“When we tell and share stories, we learn,” he said.

A reminder we all need: to tell our stories bravely, and to listen to those of others – especially when we are privileged in a world where so many are not. As famine rages in Gaza, Russia and Ukraine continue to engage in war and many other dreadful hotspots across our world, trying to see different points of views (other stories) is vital!

There was also a harsh truth. I learnt, to my shame, that rhino horn is now mainly stolen and exported to Vietnam, not for ritual but to make dice – a grotesque sign of wealth. Vietnam is off my travel list. Not out of spite, but in solidarity with our vanishing rhinos. Until their government acts, I’ll actively discourage others from visiting.

Early mornings gave way to slow afternoons, naps in our luxury tents, bottles of something fine paired with nature and her animals, and nights crowned by campfires and constellations. Sharing all this with Kurt (and our rather wild Into the Wild dress-up), Trudi and Justin, Matt and Caroline, Derek and Charlotte, and so many other stunning old and new friends, made it even more special.

On this trip I was reminded of visiting, as a kid, the house in Switzerland where Paul Kruger died in exile, far from the park that now bears his name. In 1898, Kruger used his position as President, telling the Volksraad that game needed protection “for setting aside certain areas where game could be protected and where nature could remain unspoilt as the Creator made it”. His legacy continues to give so much to so many. And so I wondered on those game drives: what will our legacy be?

For me, it’s simple. I want to be remembered for trying – trying to do my best, trying to contribute despite my many flaws, trying to help others be their best selves and to leave the world better than I found it. In the end, that’s all any of us can aspire to I think – a contribution, however small it may seem at the time.

If you’re looking to deepen your connections in meaningful ways, I can’t recommend these three enough: Iconic Africa for life-changing African experiences, Great Domaines for wines and champagnes that make moments even more memorable, and The Tracker Academy for conservation that transforms both people and places. Support them if you can – because protecting our heritage is everyone’s opportunity.